Amyris Sells Biossance, JVN, Rose Inc: Cruelty-Free Status Update

THG, previously recognized as The Hut Group, has made a significant acquisition by purchasing the clean beauty brand Biossance in a deal valued at $20 million. This strategic purchase is anticipated to significantly strengthen the retail giant's lineup of beauty products. Biossance had previously been one of the highest-performing brands available at Sephora. The brand's standout ingredient, Hemisqualane, serves as a cruelty-free substitute for squalene sourced from sharks, and it is projected to prevent the harm to up to 2 million sharks annually.

This acquisition took place in December 2023, only four months following the Chapter 11 bankruptcy filing by Amyris, the former parent company of Biossance. Numerous enthusiasts of the brand are now questioning whether THG qualifies as a cruelty-free parent entity and if Biossance will continue to uphold its cruelty-free practices. As experts in this domain, the team at Cruelty-Free Kitty is vigilantly monitoring this development and evaluating its implications for Biossance's cruelty-free standing.

At present, THG occupies a grey area in terms of its cruelty-free classification. This status indicates uncertainty about whether the company itself conducts animal testing or oversees brands that engage in such practices. Typically, companies in this category have either failed to respond to our repeated inquiries or have declined to share detailed information regarding their suppliers, ingredients, third-party partners, and related matters.

In this particular instance, Cruelty-Free Kitty has proactively contacted THG to obtain clarity on their animal testing policies. Until we receive a definitive response that allows us to confirm or refute their position, we are maintaining THG in the grey area. We commit to keeping our audience informed with any new developments as they arise.

What the Biossance Acquisition Means for Cruelty-Free Consumers

Even though THG is categorized in the grey area for now, Biossance continues to hold cruelty-free certifications from both PETA and Leaping Bunny. A Leaping Bunny certification provides assurance that the brand does not perform animal testing on any finished products or ingredients. Furthermore, it verifies that the brand does not commission suppliers or third parties to conduct animal tests on its behalf. These brands also refrain from distributing their products in nations where animal testing is mandated by law, except in cases where they participate in Leaping Bunny's cruelty-free China Qualification Program.

Consequently, provided that THG sustains Biossance’s Leaping Bunny certification, the brand will stay listed as cruelty-free within our database. We have specifically inquired with THG about their intentions to renew this certification moving forward and are presently awaiting their reply. Should THG decide to discontinue these certifications for Biossance, we will promptly follow up for additional details to assess the impact.

What Other Brands Did Amyris Sell?

Amyris began its journey as an innovator in the biofuel sector before shifting its focus to the beauty industry, where it launched Biossance in 2015. However, Biossance is not the sole cruelty-free beauty brand that Amyris has owned and subsequently sold through auction. Rose Inc. and JVN represent two other brands certified by Leaping Bunny that have undergone comparable transitions.

JVN Acquisition

JVN, a haircare line co-founded by Jonathan van Ness from Queer Eye, was auctioned successfully to Windsong Global in December 2023 for $1.25 million. We reached out to Windsong Global and obtained the following responses:

CFK: Will JVN remain a cruelty-free company?

WS: Yes - Jonathan van Ness is our partner in JVN and we will continue with all of the cruelty free initiatives.

CFK: What other beauty brands does Windsong Global currently own?

WS: We have investments in Revive, Algenist, Cosbar, and Pipette.

CFK: What is your animal testing policy?

WS: Windsong has a sector focus on beauty and each brand endeavors to be cruelty free, environmentally conscious, and ingredients that are clean.

While Windsong Global holds stakes in several cruelty-free companies, it also invests in Algenist, which conducts animal testing when required by law. Although Windsong does not have complete ownership of Algenist, its financial involvement supports a brand that is not cruelty-free. As a result, Windsong Global does not qualify as a cruelty-free parent company. That said, based on their direct assurances, JVN is expected to preserve its cruelty-free status and Leaping Bunny certification following this acquisition.

Rose Inc. Acquisition

Rose Inc., co-founded by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, has so far maintained its cruelty-free credentials after being acquired. The brand was sold to AA Investments for $2.5 million toward the end of 2023. It remains undetermined whether AA Investments operates as a cruelty-free parent company. Nevertheless, similar to Biossance and JVN, Rose Inc. presently retains its Leaping Bunny certification.

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